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Rent-A-Husband® University
We hope you enjoyed the recent airing of our power tool operations segment on the CBS Saturday Early Show!
The ladies were a wild bunch to teach. If you are interested in having Rent-A-Husband University conduct a class (or classes) in your neighborhood please let us know. We are currently in the process of establishing a national tour of "how-to" classes. Perhaps we could schedule a stop in your area!
Now here are some additional tips on operating hand power tools like the Pros!
SAFETY FIRST:
Before using any hand power tools, be sure that you have a safe space to work, and have considered the following:
1. Locate a work area where you can have secure footing
2. Wear safety glasses or goggles that fit properly
3. Inspect all cords to be sure there are no frays or breaks
4. Always keep your hands away from the blade areas
5. Long hair and loose clothing needs to be secured
6. Never make repairs or adjustments to your tools while they are plugged in
1. PALM SANDER
It is important for beginners to start building confidence by using what I refer to as less aggressive hand power tools. The Ryobi Corner Cat is the palm sander I used on the show. I like this unit for a number of reasons.
1. It is very light with low vibration
2. you can easily attach abrasive pads as well as sanding pads; this is a great feature!
3. Because of its "iron" shape it is ideal for sanding in corners as well. When sanding it is important to consider the following information; Make sure you have chosen the proper grade of sandpaper. The higher the number, the smoother the grit. Generally when sanding "soft" woods it is good to choose a medium grit to start and then adjust accordingly. And remember, sanding is a lot like ironing a shirt in that you always sand with the grain. {like ironing a sleeve you go with the fabric, not across the fabric.} Be sure to clean the dust bag on your sander at regular intervals for optimum performance.
2. HAND POWER DRILL
Hand power drills come in a variety of sizes and weights, the first thing to do is to purchase the proper sized drill for your physical condition. Here is a good test: You should be able to hold the drill in one hand with your arm fully extended for 30 seconds. If the drill youve selected is too difficult to hold in this position, I recommend finding a lighter model. When drilling remember that the drill and the drill bit should be doing all of the work. If you find yourself grunting and leaning onto your drill, chances are you have the wrong drill bit, you may be using an improperly sharpened drill bit, or your drill could be set at the wrong speed. When drilling into a surface always make sure you know what is behind the surface. If you are uncertain, I recommend that you drill in quarter inch increments and probe as you go. Be extremely careful not to drill into utilities. There are 3 basic types of drill bits. 1, wood, 2, metal 3, masonry.
3. RECIPROCATING SAW
Now we are starting to get into the more "aggressive" hand power tools. The reciprocating saw is one of the most versatile saws on the market. While it is primarily a "demolition" type tool; one quickly learns that this saw has a multiple of uses. Much like the drill, it is important to let the saw and its blades do the bulk of the work. Reciprocating saws can be used with both wood and metal blades. The saw should always be used with a sharp blade and should be at a slight angle to the material being cut. Prior to making your first cut, be sure that you fully understand what you are cutting into. When using the saw be sure that you have secure footing and that you keep your hands back from the blade area.
4. CIRCULAR SAW
While this is perhaps the most aggressive hand power tool on the market, it is also one of the most commonly needed and used tools as well. Key to safe operation when using a circular saw is the blade safety guard. You must be certain that the guard is in good working order, if the guard does not move properly it can cause you to lose control of the saw as you set it down. One major issue with the circular saw is kick back. Kick back can occur when you try to cut wood that is too wet, when your cut is out of line, or the blade depth has been set too deeply. To help reduce the chance of kick back, make sure the blade is adjusted to a cutting depth of about 1/4 inch deeper than the material being cut. Always maintain secure footing when using a circular saw. And as with any power tool wear properly fitted safety glasses.
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Window Installation
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Quick Tips & Easy How-tos...
on How to Properly Measure for and Install a Vinyl Replacement Window!
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Step 1
Check to make sure the entire interior wood stop is removable. [2 sides and 1 top] Some windows have had the window channel grooved into it and will require a professional for installation.
Step 2
Once you have confirmed the interior stops are removable it is now time to measure for your new window. It is important to measure the height and the width in 3 locations using the shortest measurement for both. When measuring the width making sure you are measuring to the widest part of the window frame. [The inset] For the length measure from directly behind the drop in the window stool to the highest point of the header; if you find this difficult most retailers will measure for you.
Step 3
Order new window - typical delivery time is 2 to 4 weeks. Once the new window arrives, double check the window size to insure it will properly fit before removing existing window.
Step 4
Remove existing interior stops, then remove existing window sashes.
Step 5
Check window frame for rot, if none is found proceed. Scrape and paint window frame as necessary.
Step 6
Dry fit new window into existing cavity to insure proper fit. Then remove.
Step 7
Run a continuous bead of silicone caulking (make sure silicone is compatible with vinyl) on the inside of the exterior stops on the sides and top. Then run a bead on the outside of the wood stool of the window.
Step 8
Insert window back into opening make sure to keep it centered side to side in the rough opening.
Step 9
Install shims as needed between new window and the existing wood sill and check for level.
Step 10
Install shims as needed behind the installation holes in the jambs, making sure the frame is plumb, level and square as you go. The window is square when the two diagonal measurements are equal.
Step 11
The replacement windows are held in place by stainless steel screws (provided) which fasten the side jambs of the new window to the existing wooden jamb of the old window frame. (Note: expose the mounting holes by opening the window or raising and lowering the sashes.) When fastening the screws, make sure to press the window unit against the outside stops to ensure a tight fit. Screws must be installed flush to the vinyl jambs without over tightening for proper clearance of the balance mechanism. Install the top and bottom screws on both sides of the window frame. Adjust the alignment screws at the center of the window jambs for straightness of the jambs using shims behind the screw pads as needed. Install the center installation screws.
Step 12
Using fiberglass batt insulation material fill the cavity between the side jambs and head of the window and the rough opening, being careful not to overstuff this pocket.
Step 13
Seal the gap between the new window and the jamb by running a bead of silicone caulk around the entire perimeter. Then reinstall the three interior window stops.
Step 14
Final step go to the exterior of the window and fill the cavity under the replacement window using fiberglass batt insulation. Cut the sill adapter to length and snap into place. Now simply wash the interior and exterior of the new windows ~ just kidding, you may want to Rent-A-Husband for that!
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